antarctica

It has been a bit difficult to get to the computer here on the ship but I got up during the night and ,even then, there was a short line. We have completed our Antarctica portion of the cruise somewhat early but I will summarize and explain. Our southern crossing of the dreaded Drake Passage was pretty smooth. The weather held out and we were congratulating ourselves- maybe too soon. It takes 36 hours to go the 400 miles but when you wake the 2nd day you can see the Shetland islands - all rocks and covered with snow. The weather remained in the 40s to 50, so not bad. Our first landing was on Deception Island. This is a caldera of a volcano which last erupted in the late 60s. Today you sail through an opening in the side called Neptune's Bellows which is about 300 yards wide. We went ashore in groups of 8 until there were 100 ashore- the legal limit according to the Antarctic Treaty. Then, as 8 returned, more went out, each staying about an hour. We used Polar circle boats which are much more stable than Zodiacs which are little more than rubber rafts.
Deception Island has no penquins- too hot from the volcanic actitivity but there are skua nests on the beach which was basically pumice and volcanic black rocks. Skuas are larger brown birds which seem to torture the penquins by eating their eggs, etc. but these babies were adorable- all fluffy and chirpy and about 15" tall. There are the remains of a station ruined during the mudslides caused by the volcano. Beautiful site with the mountain on all sides. At the end of our little tour inspecting the detritus of several metal buildings abandoned as well as many whale bones and carcasses, I had the big decision to make and decided to go for it.
I went down to the edge of the beach, stripped off my outerwear to my bathiing suit and jumped into the Antarctic Ocean. It was freezing. Anyone who knows me knows I do not even go into the ocean at Greenhill until September but well... when are you ever going to get a chance like this? It helps that there is a cheering crowd taking pictures and egging you on. Probably a couple of dozen went in altogether but we had about 5 during our time of the 100. I stayed in the requisite time long enough to go up to my neck and scurried out. Hardly quickly because your legs feel like ice almost immediately. The best part was jumpimg into a shallow pit dug by the crew which contained hot, hot water just below the surface. Sort of a reverse Finnish thing. Indeed the water got so hot it was like being cooked so the cruise shovelled the cold ocean water unto us. Anyway it was great and I am really glad we did it. Actually Bert forgot to bring his camera so he had to go in twice just for posterity. When I got out of the hot springs it was bitter and there was little else to do but strip off the suit- the heck with modesty I was freezing- and there are pictures to prove it! So back in the boat to the ship.
There are 235 on the cruise. 58 are German, 37 American, 34 Canadian and 30 Aussies. There are 20 Brits, 15 Finns and the rest from various European countries. The ages really skew quite old and I am one of the younger passengers. Some of these folks are amazing and some you wonder what they were thinking. The crew consists of Norwegian officers and Phillipine attendants who are all great. The food is definitely more to the European taste but it is different and that's what you want when you travel. If you like fish in every conceivable form this is for you.The Nordnorge is a coastal ferry usually used to travel the fiords of Norway and can carry 45 cars in the summer. The cabins are minute, about 90 feet square ,with a fold down bunk on each side of the room and a bathroom that is efficient to put it kindly, but the ship shines. It is absolutely immaculate and beautifully maintained.
On the second day we had 2 landings and we finally saw the penguins. On the first we saw the largest Gentoo penguin colony in the world. There were thousands of them everywhere you looked. They are not afraid of humans and though we were to stay 15 feet from them, they do not know that and frequently walk up to people though they rarely touch. The babies were every different age from a few days to 2 months. For some reason this year they are being born in stages instead of all at once. In fact we saw a few birds sitting on eggs which is a shame because their young will not survive as winter will start soon. Watching them so closely was amazing, feeding their young, stealing rocks from the neighbors' nests, having their little spats, changing off daycare duties with their partners, fabulous. The smell however is another story and, since they pretty much stay in the same spot, it piles up and it ends up on our boots and clothes. I have gotten used to it however.
The second landing was similar to the first and in addition we got to watch calving glaciers which was awesome. You have to be watching and just lucky because the sound, which is a loud boom, is slower to reach you than the sight. The icebergs which come in all sizes are usually white but many of them have this translucent blue quality which is hard to describe. I do not even know if it will come out in the pictures but it is unforgettable.
On the third day we visited Admirante Brown , a Chilean base recently reinhabited. They also have a Gentoo colony. The penquins share the same slice of rocks and beach with the scientists. there was also a colony in the cliffs of blue eyed cormorants. As we sailed along to our second landing there were occasional whale sightings and penquins watching us pass from their perches on ice floes as well as a couple of seals. Very cool- in more ways than one.
Peterman Island is an Argentine base which has the distinction of having both Adelie and Gentoo penquins. See, I am becoming a penguin expert and can now tell many of the species apart. The Adelies are a little smaller and are have all black heads. Apparently they occasionally interbreed. the Adelie babies were a riot as they are losing their baby feathers, plucked off by their parents.These youngsters did not appreciate the grooming and protested loudly. They are fat little things and quite a handful to take care of. The best thing is to just sit on a rock and let the scene unfold in front of you. The hour goes too fast.
What I hadn't mentioned was that the night before we had a visit from the Nordkapp which was in the final days of their cruise having come the opposite way from Chile. Their Captain pulled up very close to our ship, anchored in Paradise Bay for the night and the crews called and waved to each other and we exchanged different items each needed such as wine for our ship. Not sure what we sent. Anyway after a half hour ,at 8:30 PM, they sailed away. We did not think much of it. Until...
The next night, after our 3rd day on the continent with 2 to go, we were called to a meeting and told that the Nordkapp had run aground and that we were sailing to get her passengers. This meant the end of our time here. We had been fortunate that the weather held but, being so isolated, there are really no other ships around. We lost the last 2 days and spent the night and morning sailing back to Neptune's Bellows where we added 320 more to our group. As I write this they are sleeping everywhere. Bert and I moved to a smaller room for a few days so that they could have more room for everyone. So we are back on the Drake much rougher this time and going back to Ushuaia to deliver them to their plane. Some disgruntled passengers but my feeling is that I would have wanted them to help us. Lots of Americans in this group, they seem like fun. Only 115 did not get beds and are camped out in the public rooms. Will write more when I can. I miss everyone and hope this is getting back home. Can you imagine writing from Antarctica?